Third most
important industrial pole in the country, Belo Horizonte is recognized for its
important personalities such as writers, musicians and politicians. In its
surrounding areas, you find the cities of Ouro Preto, Mariana, Congonhas do
Campo and Tiradentes, which hold stories from the cycle of gold and the baroque
influence in Brazilian art. The city is also famous for its innumerous bars
where you can try a delicious local cachaça, the typical Brazilian drink, and
appreciate the tasty Minas Gerais food.
Liberty square
Via Cristina, one of the famous bars, where the visitlor can taste several blends of Brazilian cachaça
Ouro Preto hills
The soccer
rivalry in the city is polarized between Cruzeiro, symbolized by a fox, and
Athletico, also known as "Galo". The América Futebol Clube, a
traditional sports owner in the state of Minas Gerais, is the third force.
The Minas
Gerais fan is very passionate. The city is already breathing to preparation for
2014, and has a countdown clock to the beginning of the world cup in Liberty
Square, an important cultural pole of the city.
Mineirão stadium
The temple for
the fervor of local fans is Governor Magalhães Pinto stadium, called the
Mineirão. A stage for big games since 1965, and with a capacity to house 62,160
fans, it is scheduled to host a semi-final of 2014 World Cup on July 8th.
Other relevant matches in the group stage will take place in this arena.
June 14th – Saturday - 01:00pm - Colombia x Greece (group
C)
June 17th – Tuesday - 01:00pm
- Belgium x Algeria (group H)
June 21st
– Saturday - 01:00pm - Argentina x
Iran (group F)
June 24th
- Tuesday - 01:00pm - Costa Rica x England (group D)
June 28th – Saturday - 01:00pm - 1st group A x 2nd
group B (round of 16)
July 8th
– Tuesday - 05:00pm - winner
quarterfinal group 1 x winner
quarterfinal
group 2 – semifinals 1
Two members of World Champions´ club have a place
in this city. Argentina brings its tradition and unquestionable Messi and
England lands in Brazil with the hope to perform in a high level to become, again, a protagonist.
The speedy, strategist and unbelievable Argentinian star Messi in action
He does not believe, he curses, he denies, he shouts, he feels miserable, he cannot control
the frustration, he lowers his head, he searches for consolation, he raises his eyes to the sky, he cries...
But then he breathes, he focus, he re-thinks, he carries on, he does not give up, he struggles, he runs, he encourages others, he wins, he dances, he sings, he jumps and flies in the
air, he raises his arms, he slides in the lawn, he hugs the other players, he feels relieved, he celebrates with the audience and thanks somebody.
São Paulo city has
soccer in its veins, since this is the city where Charles Miller was born and
raised. Charles Miller is responsible for the introduction of this sport in
Brazil. Son of a Scottish father and a Brazilian mother descended from a
British family, he brought the sport to the area from England in the late
nineteenth century, after having studied and practiced in Hampshire. Miller was
an eminent player and a top scorer of the São Paulo Athletic Club; a club for
the British elite who lived in São Paulo. He is recognized as the creator of
the dribble and for passing the ball with his heels. Miller was also
influential in founding the Paulista Soccer League (Liga Paulista de Futebol),
the first in Brazil.
São Paulo
city has three of the best clubs in Brazil: the old rivals Corinthians,
Palmeiras and São Paulo, which together hold no less than 14 titles of the
Brazilian Championship. Besides them, there are three traditional clubs in São
Paulo: Portuguesa de Desportos, Juventus, and Nacional.
The
"iron trio" (trio de ferro), as São Paulo, Corinthians and Palmeiras
are known, take up classic matches in the Campeonato Brasileiro Série A, Copa
do Brasil, and Campeonato Paulista. The matches between these teams bring
together thousands of fans and have specific nicknames. Corinthians x São Paulo
is known as the Majestic, Palmeiras x São Paulo is the King's Choque; and
Palmeiras x Corinthians Paulista is the Derby.
In the
neighboring beach town of Santos, Santos Futebol Clube is considered an icon in
the history of the Brazilian sport. Two time world champion club in 1962 and
1963, it had one of the greatest teams of all time, with envied players such as
Gilmar, Zito, Pepe and the great Pelé, known worldwide. That's where young
player, Neymar, started to appear in the global scenario; a player who emerged
as one of the new greats of national soccer, showing up his talent now at FC
Barcelona. The Vila Belmiro, the stadium of the club, is one of the mythical
places of the sport.
Vila Belmiro stadium, in Santos
The São Paulo
Futebol Clube has its own stadium, Morumbi, which was one of the venues of the
first FIFA Club World Cup in 2000. The tricolor team is the largest
international winning team of the country, with three world titles - the last
of them in 2005 against Liverpool, winning by 1 x 0 in Yokohama, Japan.
Morumbi stadium
The Sociedade Esportiva Palmeiras has the Allianz Parque Arena, fully
modernized and still under construction.
Palmeiras stadium project
The Pacaembú
stadium received six matches of the FIFA World Cup Brazil in 1950, most
importantly the match between Brazil and Switzerland, in the first phase, and
it also hosts the matches for Corinthians, who won its first Copa Libertadores
title there in 2012.
Pacaembu stadium
The incredible Soccer Museum is located inside this stadium. It is an outstanding attraction for soccer fans to have fun in an interactive way.
As one of the
main ports of entry into the country, the city of São Paulo will receive
visitors for the opening game of the World Cup in 2014. The new Itaquera Arena,
which will be located in the East Zone of São Paulo, has been launched with
capacity for 65 thousand spectators. After the initiation game, it will also
host four games in the first phase, one in the round of 16 and one of the
semifinals. The opening match in the stadium occurred with a national league
game, in which Corinthians – the host team - lost by 1-0 against Figueirense.
Arena Itaquera, called Itaquerão, located in the east region of São Paulo
Brazil opens
the World Cup in the arena, in an historic match for local people. England,
Uruguay, Chile, Netherlands and Belgium are strong squads to appear in this new
spot.
June 12th –Thursday -
05:00pm - Brazil x Croatia (group A) – opening game
June 19th - .Thursday - 04:00pm - Uruguay
x England (group D)
June 23rd
– Monday - 01:00pm - Netherlands x Chile (group
B)
June 26th
- Thursday - 05:00pm - South Korea x Belgium
(group H)
July 1st – Tuesday – 01:00pm – 1st
Group F x 2nd Group E (round of 16)
July 9th –
Wednesday – 05:00pm -
winner of quarterfinals 3 x winner of quarterfinals 4 (semifinals).
One
of the finalists will be defined here, having the chance toappear in
the final match at Maracanã stadium in Rio de Janeiro.
Le 12 juin, la capitale économique du Brésil applaudira le match
inaugural (Brésil-Croatie) de la Coupe du monde de football. Cinq autres rencontres
suivront. Visite d'une mégapole avant-gardiste en quelques spots exemplaires.
On l'imagine immense, désordonnée, poussée trop vite, fêtarde mais quand
même aux aguets. Elle est tout cela et bien plus encore. «São Paulo est
depuis toujours à l'avant-garde des villes brésiliennes. C'est ici que les
choses se passent, que se créent les tendances de la mode, de l'économie, des
arts. São Paulo invente demain, à la manière d'un New York version latine»,
résume Jean-Philippe Perol, directeur Amériques d'Atout France, l'organisme de
promotion de l'Hexagone, et surtout pauliste de cœur depuis des décennies.
Avant de toucher la piste de l'aéroport Guarulhos, l'avion survole des
tapis de quartiers hétéroclites, des entrelacs d'autoroutes à huit voies et de
chemins de terre, des forêts d'immeubles. Cela dure une éternité. São Paulo
joue la démesure et empile les records: étendue (plus de 1500 km2, cinq fois
Paris et sa banlieue), population (19 millions pour l'agglomération, soit
10 % des Brésiliens), armée de va-nu-pieds, on ne les compte plus,
cabriolets pour frimer et voitures blindées, ça rassure, boîtes de nuit (plus
de 2 000) et fête a gogo, pizzas (1 million avalées chaque jour), prisons
bondées (190.000 détenus), gratte-ciel (2 578, chiffre officiel) et des
milliers de peintures murales, cris de guerre ici, œuvres d'art là-bas. Son vertige est sans limites.
• Passion
foot
Alors,
commençons par le point zéro de la ville. Place de la cathédrale Saint-Paul, là
où, le 25 janvier 1554, douze jésuites posent la première pierre de leur
mission. C'est l'épicentre de São Paulo, là où les cloches sonnent à la volée,
où un orgue immense joue pour le ciel chaque après-midi. Une stèle rend hommage
aux pères fondateurs, sur le vaste parvis tiré comme un tapis de pierres devant
le grandiose édifice. À l'ombre des palmiers géants qui l'encadrent, des religieuses pressant
le chapelet, des musiciens tendant la sébile, des mauvais garçons et des
vendeurs de fausses Marlboro. De crack aussi. Tout autour, file la foule. Pas
pressés, mode comme à Manhattan ou Paris, téléphone portable et tablette prêts
à être dégainés, têtes blondes et visages cuivrés des Indiens guaranis, peaux
noires et toutes les nuances intermédiaires. Le fameux miracle du métissage
brésilien est au rendez-vous.
Ainsi court São Paulo, pour imposer sa loi des affaires, celle qui en
fait la capitale économique du Brésil. Elle produit le quart de sa richesse et
abrite 60 % de ses grandes fortunes. Ajoutons une évidence, le joyeux ADN
des gens du Sud. Sourire et on fait amigo avec le voisin de bus, le serveur du
café, le vendeur de jus de canne. À condition d'oublier le nombre effarant des
habitants de la rue, on croirait presque à l'harmonie.
En janvier, une favela pour 500 personnes est née de tôle et de cartons
en quatre jours sur le parking d'un hôpital. De son côté, la Fifa visitait
l'Arena où joue habituellement l'équipe des Corinthians et l'a déclarée apte
pour la Coupe du monde. Ouf. Grâce au ballon, toutes les strates de la société
pauliste vibrent à l'unisson. Soutier à la peau sombre sur un chantier pour
400 dollars par mois ou cadre sup blanc formé aux États-Unis, dix fois
mieux payé, cela change la vie, pas la passion foot. L'un et l'autre savent que
le premier match jamais joué au Brésil l'a été ici, en 1894, jubilent avec les
1282 buts du roi Pelé ou les exploits du gamin Neymar,
rêvent d'une sixième étoile de champion du monde sur le maillot des Auriverde…
• Charcuteries italiennes
Démonstration au Museu de futebol, installé au stade municipal, petit
bijou Art déco. Fous de foot, bienvenue au paradis, guidé par un Pelé virtuel.
Images des grands matchs, expo de ballons, gestes d'anthologie, fiche des clubs
brésiliens et des joueurs qui marquèrent l'histoire… il y a tout, même des
animations pour les bambins.
Devant le
stade, une esplanade et un marché alimentaire quotidien. Tout au bout sont
installées des échoppes pour grignoter sur le pouce, dont une tenue par une
famille japonaise. Elle sert des beignets garnis avec ce qu'on aime, fromage,
crevettes, légumes, viande. Une spécialité italienne à l'origine, piquée par la
communauté nipponne. Les deux plus grandes migrations de São Paulo tiennent sur
ce minicomptoir ouvert à tous les appétits.
L'appel aux
papilles touche son Graal au marché municipal. L'immense halle couverte, murs
de brique et toit de verre, abrite 250 étals sur 12.600 m2. Charcuteries et
fromages italiens en force. Trois millions de Paulistes revendiquent des
ancêtres venus de la Botte pour brûler le café à la fin du XIXe siècle. En mezzanine avec balustrade, on admire l'aimable bousculade et le
ballet des ménagères d'en bas. Une vingtaine de mammas, entourées de fistons
aux ordres, touillent les marmites et grillent la bruschetta comme à Napoli. Il
suffit de lever la main pour voir arriver une portion d'ogre. Moins de
10 euros nourrissent la famille. L'amabilité et la sincérité, c'est
cadeau.
Ce soir, pour prolonger la magie, grimper au sommet de la tour Italie
(46 étages), gloire de la communauté. Le restaurant-bar du sommet offre une vue
éblouissante à 360°.
• La folle
vie des murs
Retour au
niveau du bitume. Malaise à voir le nombre de ceux qui y vivent jour après nuit. Toutes les vitrines de plain-pied sont barricadées, c'est un signe. Le
soir, certaines ruelles passent aux mains des laissés-pour-compte, assez
volontiers foncés de peau. Ils interpellent les passants, boivent au goulot et
se provoquent de clan à clan. Les voitures glissent, vitres teintées, portes
verrouillées. Au petit matin, ils insulteront les camions de la volerie et
fileront faire la manche un peu plus loin.
Autre
surprise, la folle vie des murs. Le «street art» consiste à peindre des
fresques géantes, parfois grandioses, sur les façades aveugles. A minima, les
oiseaux de nuit armés de brosses barbouillent à la va-vite un cri militant:
«C'est moi, donc c'est toi», admettons, «F… la police», un classique, «L'Art
n'est pas un crime», on est d'accord. Et de vrais tableaux, façon BD,
peinture naïve ou réaliste, scènes abstraites. Très souvent bluffants.
Aboutissement génial de ces élans à Beco do Batman, une enclave du
quartier étudiant de Madalena. Ruelles étroites jamais bien droites aux façades
totalement peintes, sans cesse repeintes. Tourbillon fantasque de formes et de
couleurs, de rêves et d'envies. Magnifique. «Jadis, les grands architectes
signaient le look de São Paulo. Aujourd'hui, ce sont les peintres de rue qui
remplissent cette mission, avec des stars comme Nina Pandolfo, Minhau,
Chivitz, etc.», ajoute Jean-Philippe Perol.
Pour faire durer le plaisir, pousser à deux pas jusqu'au carrefour des
rues Aspicuelta et Mourato. À chaque coin, un bistrot avec sa terrasse. Ce sont les plus bobos de São Paulo. La bière y coule à flots et les
écrans géants captent toutes les attentions. Ce sera un des hauts lieux de la
Coupe du monde de foot.
• L'avenue Paulista
Impossible de ne pas arpenter l'avenue Paulista. On parle des
«Champs-Élysées de São Paulo». Rien à voir, sauf la largeur de la chaussée et
la mémoire, quand les barons du café alignaient leurs somptueuses villas. Disparues. Place aux immeubles signés des grands architectes pour les
banques, compagnies de téléphonie, boutiques chics et restaurants aux goûts et
tarifs du jour. Tout le monde n'a pas les moyens. Sur le trottoir, impeccable
ballet des cols blancs vissés à leur smartphone et des fashionistas multipliant
les effets de sacs. Regards croisés. La beauté métisse traverse le miroir des
destins en un claquement de stiletto. On dirait celui d'un fusil d'assaut.
Carnet de route
Y aller: Plusieurs vols quotidiens directs à
destination de São Paulo sont assurés par Air France au départ de Paris. Ils
durent 11 h 30. À partir de 973 € en classe économie, 1 952 € en
classe premium et 3 600 € en classe affaires. Tél.: 36 54
et www.airfrance.fr
Formalités: Pas de visa exigé.
Passeport valide six mois après la date de retour.
Heure: Quand il est midi en France, il est 7
heures à São Paulo.
Argent: Argent. Le real (pluriel, reais). Un euro = 2,60
R. Un R = 0,45 €.
Se loger: Le Novotel Jaragua présente
l'avantage d'être posé en plein centre-ville, à deux pas de la cathédrale ou du
marché. Établissement fonctionnel de 415 clefs. Son
hall d'accueil et ses couloirs sont décorés par les photos noir et blanc des
personnalités qui l'ont fréquenté. Impressionnant. À partir de
100 € la chambre double. Tél.: + 55 11 28 02 70
00 et www.novoteljaragua.com
Hôtel Unique. Une architecture étonnante, souvent comparé à une tranche
de pastèque renversée. Intérieur contemporain pour 105 chambres et
suites. Effet «waou» garanti. Compter autour de 400 € la chambre double.
4 700 Jardim Paulista. Tél.: + 55 11 30 55 47 00
et www.hotelunique.com.br Hôtel Fasano. Cet établissement pour young, rich et beautiful enchante au
minimum le regard. 60 chambres seulement et ambiance chicissime. À partir de
600 € la chambre double. 88 rua Vittorio Fasano. Tél.:
+ 55 11 38 96 43 34 et www.fasano.com.br
Se restaurer: Skye, sur la terrasse de
l'hôtel Unique. Piscine éclairée de rouge, vue grandiose sur la ville et
rendez-vous de toutes ses beautés. Ambiance chic et glamour. Cuisine soignée à
tendance niponne et occidentale. Compter autour de 50 €. Avenida
Brigadeiro Luis Antonio. Tél.: + 55 11 30 55 47 10
et www.hotelunique.com.br
À côté de l'hôtel Novotel, une ruelle, Avantandava, aligne trois
restaurants italiens, qui appartiennent à la même famille, les Mancini.
On choisit son style, entre bar à pâtes, table avec musique et carte
gastronomique. Partout, jambons suspendus, photos des aïeux et statues de la
Vierge. C'est copieux et excellent. Entre 10 € et plus de
50 €. Tél.: + 55 11 32 56 43 20 et www.famigliamancini.com.br
The month of March is ending and reminds me the remarkable song of Antonio Carlos Jobim, or Tom Jobim, acclaimed Brazilian musician and songwriter, born in Rio de Janeiro.
"Waters of March" has been written in a piece of wrapping paper at dawn, when he was inspired by a strong rain dropping all night long in the countryside, where his family had a ranch. As the property was being renovated, the water brought a lot of mud to the surroundings.
He used the rain as a metaphor that linked the image of the passage of daily life with the inevitability of an end, like the rain of every March in southeastern region of Brazil. In a poetic way Tom transformed the water in a promise of life, symbol of renovation.
Although he has recorded it in album in 1972, it was only in two years later that the song entered
to the hall of fame of the best songs ever.
In a partnership with the Brazilian singer Elis Regina, both recorded the classic album "Elis & Tom" in 1974, 40 years ago, where Waters of March was part of an incredible selection of songs. It became a great success instantly.
At that time Jobim has already reached the fame as an influential musician, composer and one of the creators of bossa nova. Elis felt extremely privileged for being gifted from her recording company Philips, that it would be possible to to celebrate her ten-year career with a special album where they would perform together.
Elis Regina is considered one of the most prestigious Brazilian singers of all time. With a clear and smooth voice she was a strong representative and reference for the generations of the 70's and 80's in Brazil. She was also very popular and respected by all kind of people for her political and professional engagement.
Her daring and innovative style, her constant search for the new and her inquiet spirit can be easily perceived in her unique interpretations.
Jobim and Elis sing together in a relaxed way. The registration is an evidence of the harmony between them and includes the laughter of Elis with their improvised performance at the end of the recording.
Águas de Março - in Portuguese, as Jobim has written it originally
É pau, é pedra, é o fim do caminho É um resto de toco, é um pouco sozinho É um caco de vidro, é a vida, é o sol É a noite, é a morte, é o laço é o anzol
É peroba do campo, é o nó da madeira Caingá, candeia, é o Matita Pereira
É madeira de vento, tombo da ribanceira É o mistério profundo, é o queira ou não queira É o vento ventando, é o fim da ladeira É a viga, é o vão, festa da cumieira
É a chuva chovendo, é conversa ribeira Das águas de março, é o fim da canseira É o pé, é o chão, é a marcha estradeira Passarinho na mão, pedra de atiradeira
Uma ave no céu, uma ave no chão É um regato, é uma fonte, é um pedaço de pão É o fundo do poço, é o fim do caminho No rosto o desgosto, é um pouco sozinho
É um estrepe, é um prego, é uma ponta, é um ponto É um pingo pingando, é uma conta, é um conto É um peixe, é um gesto, é uma prata brilhando É a luz da manhã, é o tijolo chegando
É a lenha, é o dia, é o fim da picada É a garrafa de cana, o estilhaço na estrada É o projeto da casa, é o corpo na cama É o carro enguiçado, é a lama, é a lama
É um passo, é uma ponte, é um sapo, é uma rã É um resto de mato, na luz da manhã São as águas de março fechando o verão É a promessa de vida no teu coração
É uma cobra, é um pau, é João, é José É um espinho na mão, é um corte no pé São as águas de março fechando o verão É a promessa de vida no teu coração
É pau, é pedra, é o fim do caminho É um resto de toco, é um pouco sozinho É um passo, é uma ponte, é um sapo, é uma rã É um belo horizonte, é uma febre terçã
São as águas de março fechando o verão É a promessa de vida no teu coração.
Tom Jobim has also recorded another version with the lyrics translated into English.
The Waters of March, the version in English
A stick a stone, it's the end of the road, it's the rest of the stump, it's a little alone it's a sliver of glass, it is life, it's the sun, it is night, it is death, it's a trap, it's a gun.
the oak when it blooms, a fox in the brush, the knot in the wood, the song of the thrush. the wood of the wind, a cliff, a fall, a scratch, a lump, it is nothing at all.
it's the wind blowing free. it's the end of a slope. it's a beam, it's a void, it's a hunch, it's a hope. and the riverbank talks of the water of march. it's the end of the strain, it's the joy in your heart.
the foot, the ground, the flesh, the bone, the beat of the road, a slingshot stone. a fish, a flash, a silvery glow, a fight, a bet, the range of the bow.
the bed of the well, the end of the line, the dismay in the face, it's a loss, it's a find. a spear, a spike, a point, a nail, a drip, a drop, the end of the tale.
a truckload of bricks in the soft morning light, the shot of a gun, in the dead of the night. a mile, a must, a thrust, a bump. it's a girl, it's a rhyme, it's the cold, it's the mumps.
the plan of the house, the body in bed, the car that got stuck, it's the mud, it's the mud. a float, a drift, a flight, a wing, a hawk, a quail, the promise of spring.
and the riverbanks talks of the waters of march. it's the promise of life, it's the joy in your heart, a snake, a stick, it is john, it is joe, it's a thorn in your hand, and a cut on your toe.
a point, a grain, a bee, a bite, a blink, a buzzard, the sudden stroke of night. a pin, a needle, a sting, a pain, a snail, a riddle, a weep, a stain.
a pass in the mountains. a horse, a mule, in the distance the shelves rode three shadows of blue. and the riverbanks talks of the waters of march. it's the promise of life in your heart, in your heart.
a stick, a stone, the end of the load, the rest of the stump, a lonesome road. a sliver of glass, a life, the sun, a night, a death, the end of the run and the riverbank talks of the waters of march.
it's the end of all strain, it's the joy in your heart.
